Winter gloves: Slow exports dictate R&D direction

The challenging trade environment is influencing the design choices of glove makers in China.

The majority of suppliers are releasing a greater number of low-end and midrange models in acrylic, nylon, polyester and PU leather in order to reduce costs and boost profit margins.

In addition, there is currently stronger demand for less-expensive styles, especially as many consumers have cut discretionary spending since the financial crisis began in late 2008.

Companies, however, have not stopped the use of premium materials completely. Fibers such as cashmere, angora and rabbit fur are still being adopted, but these constitute only up to 50 percent of the yarn mix.

Combining textile and leather is also an option. Knitted fingers are being affixed to palms made of hide. One new men's design features a lambskin palm and angora for the fingers and cuff. A women's version has a crocheted cotton back and a pig suede palm.

Conversely, a few manufacturers are differentiating themselves by focusing on high-end gloves. These exporters employ expensive components such as lambskin and merino wool from Australia and New Zealand.

Regardless of the market segment they cater to, suppliers are highlighting texture in the latest releases.

Knitted models are punched up with ribbed and cable stitches. Metallic yarn is also blended for a glittery look.

Leather styles come with laser-etched and embossed floral patterns. Plain shells are fitted with printed fabric lining.

Embellishments are also important. Makers adorn products with embroidery, bows, metal buttons, studs, buckles, chains, and fur cuffs. Of these, buttons and buckles are commonly utilized, and add between $0.20 and $0.30 to the price.

China-made gloves are mostly knitted or come in leather, and are meant for the autumn and winter seasons. Dressy varieties made of satin, lace or jersey represent a relatively small portion of shipments.

China is home to more than 1,000 glove exporters. Privately owned manufacturers account for at least 70 percent of the supplier base, and the rest are foreign-invested.

OEM contracts make up 90 percent of shipments. The US, the EU, Japan and Russia are the major markets.

Because of the seasonal nature of the product, the peak period for order processing is summer. This is also the reason that most factories are small and midsize. Operations must remain streamlined, with no more than 300 employees, to avoid idle capacity in the lean months. Subcontracting and adding workers temporarily are common during the busy season.

To maximize the utilization of machinery, many companies also offer other types of gloves such as sports and workplace safety models. Makers of knitted varieties usually have hats, scarves and bags as sidelines.

A typical R&D team consists of five to 15 members. Up to five are designers. The rest are assigned to create patterns and samples. The department's activities are dominated by the production of prototypes.

Once the specifications are finalized with the client, materials are procured and inspected.

The manufacturing steps for knitted and leather models are different. For the former, automatic knitting machines are fed with yarn and programmed to create the desired gauge, size and motif. The use of computerized equipment hastens turnaround time and lowers defect rates. Some suppliers have upgraded to Taiwan- and Japan-made units that operate more smoothly and yield gloves with a better fit.

Handmade varieties are done in-house or subcontracted to craftsmen.

The items are embellished before the washing stage, which enhances texture. They are ironed once dry.

The first step in making leather styles is cutting the shell and lining materials according to the patterns with handheld electric scissors. Some types of decorative processes are then carried out, including perforating, stamping, embossing and embroidery.

Lockstitch, zigzag and buttonhole sewing machines are employed to assemble the pieces. The back and the palm are first stitched together, and then the thumb is added. Gussets are attached and the fingers are closed. The lining is sewn separately. It is then inserted into the shell and the glove is hemmed. Form setting follows. This step gives the final shape.

Buttons, beads and buckles are attached before packaging.

Because of the different equipment used for knitted and leather gloves, most suppliers specialize in one type. Makers that offer both varieties usually process one in-house and outsource the other. Only a few have the capability for the two disparate methods.

All factories conduct visual and tactile inspections on materials and output based on AQL and other standards agreed upon with the buyer. Finished products can also be sent to third-party testing institutes for physical and chemical analyses on request.

This article "Winter gloves: Slow exports dictate R&D direction" is originally posted in Global Sources.

Dragon Group Limited
Elite Accessories & Clothing Co. Ltd
Klobe Accessory Co. Ltd
Tonglu Tiansun Import & Export Co.,Ltd
Wuxi Bester Knitting Manufacturing & Trading Co. Ltd